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Tour
One: History & Harrods - A Tour of London's Museums
South Kensington is the home of the Science Museum, the Natural
History Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum. It is also
celebrated for Kensington Palace and its shops. Knightsbridge is
known primarily for its swanky shops - the world famous Harrods
being its pride and joy.
Begin with the Victoria & Albert museum as it's close to
South Kensington tube station and all the museums are well
sign-posted from here.
The Victoria & Albert Museum
In 1899 Queen Victoria named this museum after herself and her
much-loved husband, and the V & A, as it is commonly known,
was born. Statues of the pair, sculpted by Alfred Drury, can be
found in front of the Cromwell Road fa?de.
One of the largest museums in the world with over 150 rooms,
it's best explored by wandering about. If you prefer to be more
focused, there are excellent guidebooks in the museum shop,
which will direct you to exhibits of particular interest.
Constables, Raphael Cartoons, and The Dress Collection are all
wonderful, while the temporary exhibitions are always very good.
The
Science Museum
Next on the tour is the Science Museum. Built in 1913, this
museum is equally large, with seven floors covering the science
of medicine, food, space travel and much more. More
child-friendly than the V & A, much of this museum has
hands-on exhibits coupled with informative displays and
eye-catching models making it an educational treat for all the
family. A map from the museum shop will detail the exhibitions
and help you plan your visit.
The Natural History Museum
The last museum in the triangle is the Natural History Museum, a
spectacular building housing the history of creation. Zoology,
palaeontology, entomology and you-name-it-ology provide an
endless choice of exhibits for you to view. All manner of living
and extinct beings are displayed and explained throughout the
museum, with the Dinosaur Gallery being one of the most popular.
All three museums are excellent and should definitely be visited
at some point during your time in London. The last two are
geared towards children but are also extremely educational for
adults. South Kensington has lots of lovely eateries and is
worthy of further exploration with shopping mecca Brompton
Cross, home to the flagship The Conran Shop, Joseph, and
Kensington High Street.
To visit London's most famous shop, Harrods, keep the Natural
History Museum and the V & A on your left, and go down
Cromwell Road, which leads into Brompton Road. You'll pass the
impressive Brompton Oratory, scene of many high society
weddings, on your left, and before long, Harrods will appear on
your right. Just next door to Harrods is Harvey Nichols, an
extra-chic designer-friendly department store with a hip food
department and restaurant - the perfect place to end a
sophisticated day!
L. Northmore-Ball
Tour Two: Notting Hill and Holland Park
The centrepiece of Notting Hill is Portobello Road Market. Come
out of Notting Hill Gate tube station and follow either the
crowds or the signs for the market. Parts of it are open on
weekdays, but the full effect can only be experienced on
Saturdays when the antique shops and stalls open. It begins to
come alive at around 7am and it's much easier to wander around
at this time; by about 11am it gets quite crowded and by 1pm
it's packed.
Brunch at Caf?Bellini on the corner of Blenheim Crescent which
is also home to the bookshop featured in the film Notting
Hill. Also worth a look on Blenheim Crescent is Books for
Cooks; a wonderful little place for anyone who loves food.
If you prefer to stop at a pub The Duke of Wellington on the
corner of Elgin Crescent is good, or try the Ground Floor Bar
opposite Caf?Bellini for a more chic experience.
At lunchtime there's no need to go far. Walk down Blenheim
Crescent and take the first left along Kensington Park Road. On
either side there are excellent Italian and French restaurants
which spill out onto the pavement when it's warm (on the left is
192
which is particularly trendy).
Walk up to Elgin Crescent away from Portobello Road until you
hit Ladbroke Grove. Turn left here and walk up the hill carrying
on until you reach the main road at which it ends - Holland Park
Avenue. Pausing only for a drink in the Rat & Parrot, cross
over Holland Park Avenue and turn right. Just after Aubrey
Avenue turn left and walk up the hill until you find an entry to
Holland Park itself.
This park is tucked away and is well worth exploring. It's
attractive and each different area has its own feel, which make
for a sense of intimacy and exploration. Hidden amongst the
greenery there is a caf?and a restaurant.
When you're ready for dinner return to Holland Park Avenue and
turn right. You're now heading back towards Notting Hill Gate
tube station but before you reach it you cannot fail to spot the
Pharmacy Restaurant & Bar on your left. Designed by Damien
Hirst, its pharmaceutical theme is everywhere, from the
pill-shaped seats, right down to the staff who all sport
efficient-looking white lab coats. Stay downstairs in the bar
for cocktails or go upstairs for a meal in the restaurant.
Further up towards Notting Hill Gate tube, on the other side of
the road, there are two superb cinemas. The Coronet is a
converted theatre with all its character left intact - old,
plush red seats and an upper circle. The Gate is an art-house
cinema. Both of them have an intimate feel with just one screen
each and you get a feeling that the people who run them have a
passion for cinema. You might not have heard of the film showing
at the Gate but it will always be worth a try.
A Harvey-Craig
Tour Three: A Walking Tour of Westminster
A tour of Westminster could only start at Trafalgar Square.
's Column dominates the square, commemorating Horatio
's service to his country. , measuring only
5'4" in real life and having suffered from seasickness,
definitely cut an interesting figure as an admiral. He finally
lost his life at the battle of Trafalgar in 1805, having already
lost his right arm and left eye in battle. The column, erected
in 1843, is over fifty metres high. The sword alone measures
over seven feet - a lot bigger than Admiral ever was in
the flesh.
To the north of the square are The National Gallery and National
Portrait Gallery, which house some of the nation's most prized
treasures and some 2000 remarkable works of fine art. Note the
unimposing church on the square's east side: St
Martin-in-the-Field. This provided shelter to many Londoners
during the Blitz when London came under fire from Germany's
Luftwaffe during WWII.
Set off southwards along the grand boulevard of Whitehall,
towards the Houses of Parliament. Whitehall is home to the
headquarters of most of Britain's governmental ministries and
you'll pass the statue of Charles I, who was executed as an
enemy of the realm by
Oliver Cromwell in 1649. On the left-hand
side of the road is the Old Admiralty building, still in use to
this day, opposite which you will find the imposing structure
that is the Ministry of Defence.
On your right you will pass the Horse Guards, in all their
plumed glory. Don't miss this opportunity to take the compulsory
London photograph with a mounted horse guard, and yes, they
really aren't allowed to smile!
10 Downing Street provides the next photo opportunity. It's been
the official residence of the Prime Minister since 1732, but
Tony Blair, the current Prime Minister, has broken with
tradition. Deciding that number 10 was too small for his growing
family, he swapped houses with the Chancellor of the Exchequer
who normally resides at the more family-friendly house at number
11. You will have be satisfied with a mere glimpse through the
railings as increased security threats in recent times have
meant that public access to Downing Street is no longer
possible.
To your left, in the middle of the boulevard, is the Cenotaph,
the monument commemorating Britain's war dead. Remembrance Day
(the second Sunday in November), sees a parade along Whitehall
by representatives of people who fought in both World Wars, the
Falklands and the Gulf. The Queen and Prime Minister lay wreaths
to commemorate the fallen.
Continue along Whitehall until you reach Parliament Square,
which is adorned with statues of some of Britain's greatest
parliamentary figures, including Winston Churchill, Benjamin
Disraeli and Abraham Lincoln. Cross the square to Westminster
Abbey where sovereigns are crowned and buried. This imposing
building is over 900 years old, and is a wonderful example of
Gothic architecture.
Poets' Corner pays tribute to, among many others, Shakespeare,
Shelley, Keats, Byron and Dickens. Whether the remains in
Shakespeare's tomb are his or not is still being debated by
historians and scholars, as is the answer to the question of his
true identity. In amongst the tombs of various heads of state
and leading political and cultural figures is the tomb of the
Unknown Soldier, who lost his life in WWI. Kids will lap up the
opportunity to take brass rubbings of some of the inscriptions,
allowed on certain, less famous, tombs. Meanwhile, take a break
and have a coffee from the coffee stand inside the Abbey.
Walk over to the Houses of Parliament - the seat of British
government - which stand on the site of the original palace
built for Edward the Confessor, which burnt down in 1834.
Designed by Charles Barry, the current structure is an excellent
example of Gothic Revival, incorporating Gothic and Elizabethan
styles. Wednesdays occasionally afford a glimpse of Tony Blair
cycling to Prime Minister's Question Time in the House of
Commons. Try and time it so that you're here on the hour to hear
Big Ben strike. The name 'Big Ben' is actually refers not to the
tower but to the 13-ton bell inside it.
Head straight for Westminster Bridge for your perfect photo
opportunity - the Thames, The Houses of Parliament and a red
double-decker bus - ample proof that you were in London. The big
white building on the opposite bank is County Hall, home to the
London Aquarium in the basement, loved by kids and adults alike,
as well as a restaurant and 24-hour gym. You'll also see the
London Eye.
Now that you're on the south side of the river, amble along the
embankment of the Thames (postcard view of the Houses of
Parliament) passing the London Eye. You will soon come across a
concrete complex built in the 1960s, and once described by
Prince Charles as being London's greatest eyesore - known
collectively as the South Bank. The
South Bank Center
includes: the
Royal Festival Hall (home to The London Philharmonic Orchestra
and the London Symphony Orchestra), the
Hayward Gallery, the
National Film Theatre (NFT) and the Royal National Theatre
(simply called 'The National'), which houses the Olivier,
Lyttelton and Cottesloe Theatres. There is always something
exciting on here - the South Bank also provides the
finishing-line to the gruelling 26.2 miles of the annual London
Marathon.
Tour Four: A Tailor-Made Tour Of London's "Bespoke
Couture"
Start at Bond Street Tube Station, where, rather confusingly,
you will find yourself on Oxford Street - home to hundreds of
high-street shops that have branches nationwide - a great place
for everything reasonably-priced with frequent sales and
bargains to be had.
Turn immediately right and take the left fork that is clearly
marked 'South Molton Street' - a pedestrianised area dedicated
to women's fashion. This street has a huge amount of shoe shops
which makes searching for that perfect pair of shoes easy. Other
shops of note include Browns, costume jewellers Butler &
Wilson, Ronit Zilkha and, of course, The Gap.
At the end of the street take a sharp left, followed by a sharp
right, which will take you on to New Bond Street, home to
Emporio Armani and Versace. Pop into Loewe for luxurious leather
goods and accessories, Yves Saint Laurent for exclusive fashion
from one of Paris' oldest fashion houses, Polo Ralph Lauren for
the American portrayal of the English classics, Hermes for those
must-have silk scarves, Nicole Fahri for streamlined
collections, Valentino for those exquisite evening gowns, plus
Tiffany's, Chanel and DKNY. Also on New Bond Street are: Russell
& Bromley, Mulberry (well worth visiting for
quintessentially English leather gifts), Louis Vuitton and Donna
Karan.
Turn down Conduit Street for a quick look at the quirky
eccentricities of the English and Italians in the form of
Vivienne Westwood and Moschino. Follow through to the end of
this short street until you come to the one and only Savile Row.
Before searching for the bespoke tailor of your choice it'll
probably be about time to have lunch and what better than to
have Italian restaurant Condotti only a few steps away. The
proprietor is a real art lover and the walls are almost
completely covered by original artworks. He pays great attention
to detail as can be seen in the artistry of the pizzas. It is
basically a pizza restaurant but there are delectable salads
too, as well as delicious desserts. Other options would be
Conran enterprise Zinc Bar & Grill, where the brilliant
lunch menu includes salads, sandwiches and grills; or the
ultra-cool Momo which serves up a Middle Eastern extravaganza -
both on Heddon Street off Regent's Street.
You should now be in sight of Savile Row, home to tailors
extraordinaire. Richard James is a young, funky tailor with
modern ideas, making suits with a colourful vibrancy. Check out
Anderson & Shepherd for a softer tailoring experience with a
?1,500 price tag for a bespoke three-piece, or Dege for
custom-made shirts from a variety of unusual fabrics - you can
see them being made at the cutting tables on the shop floor.
Henry Poole's was the first tailor's on 'the Row' and has
countless royal warrants since the mid-1800s. At H Huntsman
& Sons you'll experience a very classic cut which will cost
you an arm and a leg. At No 1 Savile Row is Gieves & Hawkes.
It's huge, somewhat palatial, with a feeling that this is a
favourite hang-out of the Royals - well, at least when it comes
to suits and military uniform. It's time to go on to Old Bond
Street, so turn right out of Savile Row and then left.
This is the tail end of the street but some of the most popular
'Temples of Fashion' are situated here and so it simply can't be
missed, including Prada, Gucci, Versace and Joseph. Once at the
end of the street cross over Piccadilly and stop to have a
coffee at Richoux. Then walk down St James Street, which you'll
find a little to the left. St James' Street will lead you to
Jermyn Street, favourite haunt of gentleman in search of shirt
makers and tailors before popping down to St James' Square to
his Club.
There's a great selection of quintessentially British boutiques
in this area and shirt makers galore. Here's a few of the best
of them, each having its own particular style: Herby Frogg,
Hawes & Curtis, Hilditch & Key, T M Lewin, Coles, Harvie
& Hudson, Favourbrook, Charles Tyrwhitt, Turnbull &
Asser and probably most popular of all, Pink.
Men's toiletries shops, such as the Prince of Wale's favourite,
Floris, which sells up-market fragrances for men (and women) and
the most gorgeous smelling pot pourri, are also in the area.
Hackett is popular amongst the younger generation with their
sporty, outdoor gear but manages to bridge a gap so that the
older generation come to buy their off-the-peg three-piece
suits, casual tweeds, morning suits and dinner wear. Don't
forget shoes - you can have them made for you at Lobb's, or pick
up some beautiful, more affordable leather numbers at Church's
or Russell & Bromley. At Alfred Dunhill, you can pick up
anything from a jacket to their renowned cigars. But Fortnum
& Mason is really the place to go for any tasteful souvenir
of England with their selection of English teas, coffees,
chocolates and other edibles. Plus, St James' Restaurant on the
fourth floor is a great place to end your tour with dinner.
?Londraweb.com
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